Tuesday 25 September 2012

You say Thiruvananthapuram, I say Thiruvananthapuram, let's call the whole thing off

You don't always get a chance to redeem yourself but that is exactly what happened to me in India - Part Deux. Let's say there was no love lost between India and me, the first time I went. The second time, we are bosom buddies, in fact, you could say, I fell in love.
There is a photo every step of the way

When R2 was summoned to work for a week in India, I could see the desperation in the text he sent, "Mi amor, I have to return to India....I will understand if you can't come," was what I read. What I heard was, "You better get your Canadian tukus on that plane with me and save me from Delhi Belly, if you want to go to Maldives, or any other exotic holiday, for that matter."

Who can argue with that logic? My bags were packed before he crossed the threshold that evening.

Beaches, to die for

We decided to make the best of this trip and began quizzing friends that I have met in Singy for the best place to relax and enjoy a little R&R. I heard the same answer many times over, "Go to Kerala in Southern India." My mistake; last time we only went north and missed the sprawling beaches and miles of coastline. Every person we spoke to talked about the ocean, the scenery, the breezes, and the SEAFOOD....did you say seafood?

Only skirts are worn in the temple by men
The trip began with business in Bangalore, led by fantastic dinners with 16 Starters before we even got to the Mains. I had no idea what I ate in all of those courses, but I know I rolled away from the table and gasped when our guests enlightened us to the fact we had merely just begun to eat; only five more courses until the end. This type of eating went on for two nights, so needless to say, the old mumu bikini came out of hiding when we reached Kovalam, Kerala. Now I know why I see so many burkinis on the beach, not only is modesty an issue, but also what eating all those carbs for hours at a stretch does to a girlish figure.

We landed in the state's capital city of Thiruvananthapuram; I know, say that fast five times, and drove along the coast noticing picturesque beaches, mosques and shops until we reached our secluded villa at Surya Samudra Private Retreats. I don't want to turn this story into a Trip Advisor review, but "wow" was all I could say. Once again, the tall Latino knocked one outta the park with picking these digs. 

After a cool coconut drink was brought to us, we were led to a seaside villa, atop a cliff, overlooking the Arabian Sea. Quite swank for this prairie girl, but with you people that grew up with an outhouse, you may wonder why I was so excited about the outdoor shower and loo. It was a little intimidating to bathe for all monkeys' eyes to see, but I am no Kate Middleton so I think I was safe amidst all the coconut trees.

The Mosque (Masjid) on the cliff
R2, still not accustomed to the poverty and filth, decided the best course of action was to hire a car and enjoy India from the luxury of air con and four wheels instead of three on the auto rickshaws. The Samudra Retreat was on top of everything, and lo and behold a splashy SUV picked us up to tour around as we pleased. We had a brilliant time photographing the arresting scenery, people and animals we encountered along the way. 

Again, the local people were not used to seeing the western dynamic duo, so we were stopped several times to have our photos taken. This time, we took many of the locals’ pics, and they happily posed. The mosques built on cliff tops with the sea crashing down below had to be a highlight of the trip. However, what was most fun about the journey was a group of girls that jumped from a rickshaw and started to blow kisses my way.

I enjoyed the locals this time around. As we would pass the neighborhood tailor, he would greet us with, "Hello, what is your name, where are you from, look at my stuff," and give us a friendly wave. The lady selling fruit from a shack would peek out of her dwelling each time we strolled by, giving us a huge, gummy grin hoping we were in need of a lovely bunch of coconuts.

Old man outside of the mosque
Between the intriguing photo ops on every street corner, the shy people and the stellar treatment we received at Surya Samudra, India became bliss in my world. The mornings were tranquil, only being disturbed by a distance rooster cock-a-doodle-doing, and R2 squashing another ant in our outdoor biffy. The afternoons were shaded under an umbrella or spent lazing in an infinity pool that overlooked the sublime Arabian Sea. The evenings ended with spicy-infused ginger cocktails, watching the sun slowly sink into the blue-green waters of Kovalam.

Oh India, how you charmed me. I have become a Lover, not a Fighter. Not once was I shaken down for more money, taken for a drive down a back alley to "buy something from my brother," or lose three kilos in one day from flaming dysentery acquired from fresh vegetables. I left that vacation refreshed and rejuvenated. Lord knows I need it, with the formidable task of going to Thailand in less than a week.  I could get used to this life.

To read my review on Trip Advisor, click here.

22 comments:

  1. R2 and you know how to live. So pleased with your details. Planning a trip to Kerala area as soon as 1Q 2013. Thank you Layna to getting to the heart and soul of India. All the best in Thailand. If you need a Tour Guide there we can suggest. This fellow reported to my wife for about 8-9 years when they were in the same consulting company. And she took a group to Bangkok last week where he took first rate care of them. Cheers, Jim

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    1. Woo Hoo Jim, I think you will enjoy, as long as know India is poverty and sadness....but the people in Kerala lived without means and were happy, hard working people. Much different than the North. Cheers!

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  2. I love your work, I love your writing....we want you to travel more, more so we can read and live through you. Rock on Layna in Asia.

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  3. Love reading your blog. Tell R2 I say hi, and be well.

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    1. Thank you Tony, who knew I could write, ha ha. R2 wants to be a guest blogger so stay tuned. He write much better than I do so it should be a good read.

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  4. Sounds amazing! and no delhi belly, even better!

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    1. With Chef Prakesh, only the best food. He is a wonder with seafood....I am hungry thinking of it now.

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  5. Finally the post has arrived. Glad to hear that you enjoyed Trivandrum/Kovalam.

    Next time stop by Alleppy and the backwaters. Another side to this place.

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    1. I love your blog....hook me up! And, most definitely backwaters next...so many things to do, so little time. We hemmed and hawed on the backwaters and then finally decided to relax and be National Geographic photographers.

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  6. Sonny Kapoor (Hotel Manager)25 September 2012 at 22:02

    Good evening Miss Elayna, This is Sunny Kapoor again from the Best Exotic Marigold hotel; I was wandering why you did not stay with us at our hotel, i promise you we will make it perfect in the end. I know you had fun at the Surya Samudra, of course, who wouldnt, no competition there, but we cater to a different experience, one more intimate; for this month only, and knowing that you love the food so much, you can choose to stay with the kitchen staff under the table for an incredible 5% discount on our already low rack rates.

    Please Miss Elayna I beg you to call on us.

    Yours truly

    Sunny Kapoor

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    1. Oh Sunny, Sunny, Sunny!! What a dilemma. I loved our Surya Samudra and we were treated above and beyond expectations. How will I leave that resort to sleep under the table at yours?

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  8. Glad you didn't get Dehli Belly this trip and had a fabulous holiday. What's it called when you get it in Malaysia like I did, Malaysian Malady? Hugs, sista - miss you!

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    1. Oh, if you had Delhi belly, you would know it and the bus ride home would have been tortuous. You would have needed Depends! I think you had a case of the Malay Squirts, ha!

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  9. Very nice! next time you will have to stop and watch a lovely game of crickett!!!1 LOOOOKIE

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    1. One more sport I know less than nothing about!! Or as Canadians say, "Aboot."

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  10. Hi Layna, thanks once again for the wonderful blog. You wont be surprised to learn that i left the menfolk home alone one evening and took myself off to see the The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, and in usual Jules style, cried throughout the entire movie, it was wonderful and made me think of you throughout. I miss you my friend xox

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    1. That is a great movie, and I have been to Jaipur so I am here to tell you, the film is accurate. We sat through it nodding our heads, agreeing with everything going on in the movie. I want my sister to take my mom so she can see where we have been. Glad you enjoyed the movie and miss you as well!! Besos and Abrazos to you!

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  11. I loved, loved, loved, loved, loved, loved this story. more, more more laynainasia.....

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  12. Wowza, I can only travel so fast, but thank you for the support. I will try to keep up, I promise.

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  13. well unfortunately I would say u missed the best parts of thiruvananthapuram... the best places are always off tourist maps... being a trivadrumate, I have explored the whole of it, we have adventure trekking, forest camping, pollution untouched waterfalls deep inside forests (its allowed to hike at some places, some need special permission), wild safari and many more.... next time when visit do check with a local guide for such places.... but since its off grid, there wont be any hotels or class restaurants for dining out, if u are ready to get dirty and forget hygiene, you may find some cheap not so clean mini restaurants/"dhabas" ... I would say better pack up some food and water :) :D

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    1. I definitely agree with you and would love the chance to return. Our time there was all to short...but have you met me? No way can I do cheap hotels, haha. Thanks for reading!

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