Saturday 3 November 2012

White elephant in the room

Before I moved to Asia, I had a love of Dragons that began with R2. He explained that in Asia, the mythical creature is the most revered of all the zodiacs and now that 2012 is Year of the Dragon, everyone wants a "Dragon Baby". The beast is a mix of all the animals and only comes around once every 12 years. We enjoyed dragons so much that in every country we visit, we purchase one, so now I have an extensive collection. While most of them were broken in two or three pieces on the boat ride from Canada, I still have them on display - everywhere from Mexico, to Austria, to Spain to Hong Kong to Vietnam. Thank god for Crazy Glue.

YaYa was not shy
I have never been a dog lover, although I have tried.  I enjoy the look of dogs, but in Singapore, often the poor guys are relegated to a small flat and bark like mad out of sheer boredom. Too much yapping and crapping for me. I love cats and grew up with them, but the felines in Asia are bizarre. The eyes are too close together and only a stump of a tail; it's just creepy. They mostly roam wild and keep the mouse population to a minimum but I don't want to touch them. There are many kind souls  seen in the parks and void decks feeding the strays and if they are generous, pay to have the cat sterilized to keep the population down. A clipped ear signifies a neutered cat, a missing tail, well, we haven't figured that one out yet. 

What I truly love in Asia, since I visited on a holiday three years ago is the gentle giants; the elephants. I ask you, is there anything more beautiful than the wrinkly face, the soft, trusting eyes and the inquisitive trunk of a pachyderm? These regal beasts understand about 40 commands and become attached to humans for 80 years, so why isn't there a Year of the Elephant?

Dozens of elephants walk for hours carrying tourists
I was like most tourists and didn't think much about the elephants. All I wanted to do was claim I rode one while in Malaysia. The first elephant I rode was apparently in the movie, The King and I with Jodi Foster but for all I know, it could have been in Dumb and Dumber. I only felt sadness after I handed over my Ringgits and rode that poor creature. I didn't tell R2 my feelings because while in Langkawi, I dragged him, all over God's green earth to ride that exhausted fellow. He proceeded to book me another trip in Jaipur, India, not knowing I was sickened by the abuse of the elephant and that we were contributing to it.

What we experienced in Jaipur made Malaysia seem like a picnic for the elephant.  In Jaipur, there were about 50 elephants all painted and decorated with Mahouts riding them on the neck, up and down Amber Fort. An elephant has a weak back so it is only advisable to ride on the neck. This was not the case here; there were baskets and often you would see three or four people loaded on the backs while the elephants climbed a steep 1 km trail to the top of the fort. I thought I would die when I saw a man beating the elephant on the head with a bull hook. Again, I didn't tell R2 about how upset I was, but in retrospect, I know he was as saddened and sickened as I was about the treatment. As sure as the sun rises, I know that R2 puts me first in everything he does. While riding an elephant up a huge hill is not his cup of tequila, he did it for me. I didn't want to hurt his feelings by telling him I was distraught over this madness.

I have seen the tourism elephants in Thailand and I have seen the posters advertising the shows where they dance, bow and perform for the tourists. I have seen people parading the elephants up and down the congested streets in costumes and paint while the travellers pay for a photo with them. Now that I have worked with and researched elephants, I refuse to help the people that benefit from the abuse of the beasts.

Hello YaYa...I am Layna
What I did find in Phuket, Thailand warmed my heart to a select group that make money with performing elephants. We met a man on Mai Khao beach that had a two-year-old baby named YaYa. We were lounging by the pool, when R2 shot up and yelled, "Follow me." I don't ordinarily see R2 move that fast unless there is a buffet line involved so I didn't question him, as his long legs raced down the path to the beach. What we found there was the most beautiful sight.

The man had his wrinkly, grey baby and to make money he asked for 100 Baht ($3 CA) to feed her a huge bunch of bananas. We had left so quickly we didn't have time for money, so I asked him if he could return the following day. A male elephants eat about 250 kg of food per day so I had no problem paying to feed this gorgeous girl.

Too many kisses
Sure enough, the following day the man and YaYa came back. I hugged and played with her as much as I could, while she covered me with elephant slobber from her trunk. She had bristly hair sticking out all over her head and she was a flirtatious delight.  She lapped up the bananas and grabbed them out of my hand if I was too slow to feed her. I gave her 100 Baht and she put it in the man's pocket.

YaYa stuck around the beach for a long time that day; maybe business was slow or the man was enjoying the cooler weather.  R2 ventured into the ocean and was surprised to come out of the water, right beside YaYa. She had wandered into the Andaman to refresh herself.  All R2 saw was a grey periscope above the surf. He had never been so close to an elephant before and was charmed by her.

The baby was getting sleepy
We sat near the ocean, waiting for the famous sunset of  the JW Marriott and YaYa stayed right there with us. I watched as the man tried to hose her off after she rolled in the sand, like a dog.  She is still a baby so she refused to get clean, like many babies do.  He had to scold her until she slowly came forward for a bath.  Typical kid, doesn't want to take a shower.  She played with the man by licking his face with her gigantic tongue. He blew into her trunk and she squealed in delight. At one point, he sat on the grass and YaYa stood overtop of him. No matter where he would go, she would run after him.  I was grinning from ear to ear to see this display. He was kind and gentle with her; never did he strike her with a hook or treat her in a rough manner.

Finally the sun set and all the tourists called it a night on Mai Khao beach. So did the man and YaYa.  Before he left, I walked to him and said, "That elephant really loves you,"  He replied in broken English, "I really love her."

 Sunset means home time for YaYa 
I hope the man always cares for YaYa and keeps the bull hook away from her.  I hope she has a chance to procreate and isn't made to amuse the tourists indefinitely and I pray the man always loves her the way he did on our last day in Phuket.  

Please remember and be discerning when it comes to elephant treks.  Like the trapped barking dogs in tiny Asian flats and condos, not all are treated with dignity and respect, and have the room to grow and exercise, the way they were meant to. The elephant population is reduced significantly in the world.  There is a very real fear they will quickly become extinct, so being raised by man may be the only way they will survive poachers and game hunters.

33 comments:

  1. best story yet....YAYA

    Tamero!!!

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    1. It is easy to write when the subjects are amazing! Thanks for reading.

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  2. This story breaks my heart! Here's to YaYa and to you sista, hugs!

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    1. Remember the baby on the streets of Karon? I refused to participate but this man was so kind and she was so loved that I hope/think it was okay.

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  3. The pictures are wonderful; did you take them or ... oh wait, you could have not taken them, I see you enlisted a good photographer in your party :p of course, credits never go to whom it may concern...

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    1. I took some and my handsome hubby took some....we like to share!

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  4. We have elephants in Canada too, theyre typically found in drive-thrus or slobering in line at classic buffet!

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    1. Sounds delightful, but I do believe, of a different species!

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    2. Loook asss can I have some popcorn?? Tanks dos ish realleeee goood

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  5. Beautiful story Layna. It brought a tear to my eye. Thanks for sharing your perspective on elephant husbandry. And on your husband with elephants. Hugs Jacquie

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    1. I am glad you enjoyed this piece on YaYa. I can still see her hilarious antics with the man. So often you see abuse of the elephants for money, and yet it is the only way some people can make money in poor countries so you see why they use them for their gains. this time, there was a lot of love between them both. I hope to see her again one day.

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  7. What a fantastic post! Jenna and I are in the midst of quasi-finalizing our trip next year and we look forward to all of this! We'll let you know when we are in town!

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    1. You will appreciate Asia so much once you get here Derek - it will change you forever.

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  8. awe, I loved it!!! I hope we can find YAYA and spend part of a day with him!!!!

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  9. What a special message my dear friend Keep safe

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    1. Thank you for reading and remember most of the elephants are abused, and not loved. They are a money making device, just as dolphins, horses, show dogs and whales are. That doesn't mean the handlers don't love the animals - just some are better than others. It is a means for poor people to make much needed money....so sad, all around.

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  10. Great Story! It is so tempting to put things like "Ride and Elephant" and "swim with dolphins" on our bucket list but thank you for enlightening us that this might not always be the best thing for the animal. Instead I will put "see a baby elephant" on my list and watch dolphins swim in the wild. As Maya Angelou says "When you know better, you do better". - Kendra

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    1. What a great comment Kendra - you totally get it. Most of the time, what you see, is not what you get in countries. Barnam and Bailey was one of the worst offenders of elephant abuse and yet they made so much money and the public was oblivious to the abuse of ALL of the animals. Horrible conditions. I could be completely wrong about YaYa but I sure hope not because she was a little beauty and so full of life. I hope she never gets sold to a circus but when you are so poor in Thailand, you do what you can to survive.

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  11. good story mama i love the pics. are you stories still being published in the moose jaw paper ? hopefully this one does.

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    1. Thanks baby girl. Yes, I am being published. Remember when you swam with the dolphins and were so sad after you realized how horrible it was for the dolphins? I think you almost cried. That is what happens to most of the elephants in Asia too but I want to believe there are good people (like Zallie) that truly love and honour this wonderful creature.

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    2. i want n elephant it would make a great pet

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    3. They are very loyal to people but they eat 250 KG per day and most of that comes outta them. Not sure who would clean up that mess. They are definitely gentle, loving giants and the abuse of them is shameful.

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  12. OMG, the story is heartbreaking and loving at the same time. it amazes me how cruel people can be to make a dollar and then on the other hand here is YA YA who is loved and taken care of and still making money! I enjoy reading your emails and although I do not always respond there is always a lesson to be learned from them. Thank you! Have a great week!
    K

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    1. Thank you K. It is heartbreaking as this baby was probably stolen from her mother and this young man became the "mother" to her. It is a way for them to make money but elephants eat a tremendous amount so he makes money, and she gets fed....it is a better life than some elephants and a much worse than many elephants...they belong in the wild but the numbers are dwindling rapidly. That is Asia...people are trying to keep the animal population alive and well, but there is such a demand for animals that they are fighting a losing battle. So sad and you feel helpless.

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  13. Great Story here, Layna.
    Mai Kao beach/ JW is my favorite serene spot in Phuket. Though last time I went, YaYa probably was not born yet.

    Bream

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    1. Ah, a lady with great taste! I am glad we went there after the madness of Patong - great way to relax but I think after a couple of days, it would be enough for me. I need a little excitment! YaYa made it all worthwhile.

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  14. Just read your blog about the elephants, gosh, there I was going on about an elephant trek in Thailand next month as part of our holiday package, didn't know they were so badly treated.

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    1. I can't comment on every trekking outfit, or every person that has an elephant. Just use your eyes and judgement. No matter what the animal, you can always see signs of abuse. We must all make our own decisions and I know once you see the animals, you will make the right one. Best wishes to you in Thailand - a wonderful place.

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  15. Layna, your story on YaYa and the elephants made me cry. I love love love elephants. I met baby Lucky in Phuket some years ago and he still has a very special place in my heart. To loving animals and protecting them so they can continue to play with the next generation :) Lina

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  16. Thank you for your lovely comments and for love, love, loving the elephants. I knew I liked you for a reason! There is something magical and mystical about the regal elephants and the horrors and injustices so many of them face if horrific. Let's keep spreading the word - I know this blog has made a difference!

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