Whole Lotta Rosie Eats Her Way Across Singy

What is the black goo?

Some people spend their entire life pursuing the Fountain of Youth or the elusive Holy Grail. While my goal is not as lofty, it is as important to me as finding the Lost Ark was to Indiana Jones. I might not have to battle snakes to reach my evanescent treasure but if you pay close attention, you will see the odd rat scurrying about.

I have made it my mission to hunt down the best Ice Kacang in Singapore; a dessert I had never heard of until three weeks ago. R2 and I were sitting in a Hawker's station when an elderly lady walked by with a bowl full of "something" almost bigger than she was. We watched her tackle the red and green mountainous mystery with such gusto that we had to investigate further.

Mango anyone?

After some super-sleuthing and the great powers of observations that never elude the unlikely duo of R2 and Layna in Asia, we realized this strange concoction was called Ice Kacang. After more poking around we deduce there is an island fight for who makes best rendition of this saccharine, frigid treat. R2 came to the brillant conclusion I must blog about this extraordinary masterpiece that hails from Malyasia and is loved by many.

As I usually do, I tell R2 he is loco because I am not going to tackle this mammoth bank of shaved ice. Not only is it covered in two colours of sticky syrup and condensed milk, to make it all the more strange is the fact there are mushy red beans and corn hidden in the dessert. Also, black grass jelly and attap chee (palm nuts) hide in the middle of the snow; what these delicacies are, I don't know. In true Layna fashion, I cave to R2's silliness, knowing this dessert is quite fascinating for my "soon-to-come" visitors. My only stipulation of writing about Ice Kacang is that we have to sample as many locales temptations as we can so I know what I am writing. I mean, really, why would you eat dessert with beans and corn? In Mexico you call that dinner. In Canada, you call that Taco Bell.

The following night we discover a highly recommended stand located within walking distance to our home. We put on our sensible trainers and start the humid hike to Joo Chiat. After a little iPhone assistance, we pin-pointed the tiny dessert station in the basement of one of the thousands of hawker stations located throughout the country.

Ken making his famous dessert

I had my $1.50 in my hot and sweaty palm and I told Ken, the owner of Ken's Delights I wanted my ice covered in Mango fruit and not Durian. R2 is still hounding me to sample Durian but the thought of eating this soiled-nappie smelling fruit isn't on my "to-do" list, just yet.  Maybe at the six month mark but I am still a Singapore virgin so I haven't worked my tolerance for repulsiveness up to durian level quite yet.  R2 can fool some of the people some of the time, but he can never fool Layna, any of the time!  At least not when it comes to eating stinky-cheese food.

I asked the owner if I could take his photo and he just gave me a huge smile. All the other "chefs" assembled and started to tease him about being famous.  We seemed to gather a lot of attention because I don't think a lot of foreigners trot into this minute local haunt, being as excited as I was to try this dessert.

Corn ice - what a concept!

I imagined the Kacang was going to be as simple as a snow cone we all used to beg our parents for at a myriad of summertime events. I hate to admit it, but I was as wrong as I could be.  This strange mountain of sweetness was incredible.  It is the perfect dessert when you are melting in the relentless Singapore sun.  R2 would disagree with me. He was put off by the "gummy bears".  I believe he was refering to the palm nuts but to him, they were giggly ju-jubes.  And to quote him, "This Mexican Beaner does not like the cold beans."  He thought the corn in a dessert was unorthodox to a Latino. At least Ken was delighted to see me enjoying his creation.  He gave me an even bigger smile when he saw I finished the entire bowl, only stopping to take pics.

Stop the madness....

Since we indulged in Kacang I have made it my lifework to find the finest in Singapore. Like all things in life, some bowls are better than others, some people add peanuts and many add fruit and hide coconut in the middle of the ice. I am just happy to have something that cools me down, especially after a spicy bowl of French beans and chillis or red-hot claypots in the sweltering heat.  If I continue down this road of over indulging, ACDC's Whole Lotta Rosie is going to be my new anthem.

Another masterpiece

One bowl at a time

R2 has given up on Ice Kacang and is now sampling other Malay delights like Chendol; another dessert that makes no sense to me but is popular among the locals. Perhaps his palate is more sophisticated than my hicktown taste buds. Be that as it may, I have seen him eat chilli and lime grasshopper tacos in Oaxaca and have spindly, long bug legs sticking out of his mouth, so I am not sure he is the King of Discerning Taste. Not the most charming image of your newly wedded husband, but it is one I will carry to my grave.

There are still thousands of dessert stands to try on The Little Red Dot. It is a tough job, but someone has to end the fight once and for all on who reigning Ice Kacang King. I believe if I try one per night, I might complete the island before we return to Canada, where the entire country is one massive Ice Kacang.

All I ask for my heroic efforts can someone shop at Tent and Awning and send me some new clothes once I have eaten my way from Changi to Joo Koon up to the Straits of Johor Bahru?

(Follow Layna in Asia on Mexico on My Mind site for her perspective of travels in Mexico)